Good Charts.
Better Questions.

Determine how to manage your trade or even to enter based on how much price has moved in a dayl

If your account loses 50%, you need a 100% gain to get back to where you started. Yes. Math has chosen violence. A lot of new traders assume gains and losses work symmetrically. Lose 10%? Make 10%. Lose 25%? Make 25%. Lose 50%? Make 50%. Unfortunately, no. The deeper an account falls, the larger the percentage gain required to recover. Understanding this is one of the best arguments for controlling risk before a drawdown gets ugly.

Setting a 90 pip goal is easy. Knowing where you actually stand by Thursday, after a good day, a no-trade day, and a few pips given back, is where it gets fuzzy. This does the arithmetic so you're not doing it in your head with a position open. It'll also tell you what you'd need to average over your remaining sessions, which is useful right up until you start treating it like an instruction. Let's talk about the difference, and about what a realistic pip goal even is.

You made $100 on a trade. Was that good? No idea, and neither do you, until you know what you put up to get it. Risk $25 for that hundred and you did something great. Risk $500 for it and you did something else entirely. R is the unit that sorts this out, and it's the reason your journal can finally tell you whether your method works or whether you just had a big account that month.

Twenty pips of stop, forty pips of target, 1:2. That's the whole calculation, and if you can divide you already know how to do it. What nobody explains is what to do with the number once you've got it, which is why so many people end up dragging their target out to 100 pips because 1:5 looks better than 1:2. It doesn't make the trade better. It makes the target farther away. Let's go through what the ratio actually tells you, what it can't tell you, and the one honest way to

Buy at 1.1700, want 25 pips, stop goes at 1.1675. Easy, right up until you're on a JPY pair with five decimals showing and price is running. So yes, use the calculator for that bit. But nobody tells you the more important thing, which is that your stop belongs to the chart and your position size belongs to your account, and the second you start shrinking your stop because the money feels scary, you've got it backwards. Also the bit about why your short got stopped out when th

"Risk 1% per trade" gets repeated everywhere with no explanation of where it came from. It's not a bad number, it's just not a commandment, and once you see what different risk levels actually do to an account over a run of losses you can pick your own and know why. Plug your balance in, look at the real dollar amount, and be honest about whether you could watch it go without flinching. There's also some math in here about recovering from drawdown that nobody shows beginners,

"I only lost $50." Okay, but on a $500 account that's 10% of everything you have, and on a $50,000 account you wouldn't have noticed. The dollar amount on its own tells you nothing. What matters is what slice of your account you handed to that trade, and most people work that out afterward instead of before. Let's fix the order you do this in, an The Risk Percentage Calculator works backward from the dollar amount at risk and tells you exactly how much of your account you'

You made 30 pips. How much money is that? No idea. Could be three dollars, could be three hundred. Everyone quotes pips like they mean something on their own, and they don't, they're just distance. What turns them into money is pip value, and it isn't the flat ten dollars a lot everybody repeats. Here's where that number actually comes from, and how to work backwards from it to a position size that fits your risk.

Your platform hands you a box that says 0.01 and explains absolutely nothing about it. So here's what that number is, why moving from 0.01 to 0.10 makes every pip worth ten times more, and how to work out which one you should actually be trading on a $900 account. Plus the thing nobody says out loud: your lot size isn't your risk. Your lot size and your stop loss together are your risk.

Most of us pick a lot size by typing 0.10 and hoping it's a sensible number. It isn't a number worth guessing at, because it's the one part of the trade you control completely. Your account size, the percentage you're risking, and where the stop actually belongs on the chart give you a lot size, in that order. Do it the other way round and you're not running a risk plan, you're running a lot-size habit and finding out what it cost you afterwards.